4/16/2024 0 Comments Lath and plaster walls rennovation![]() ![]() When this happens, holes can easily form and the surface becomes very unstable and often becomes powdery to the touch.Ī section of a lathed wall with plaster removed. As the laths are very flexible they allow the wall to move, and as the plaster has degraded it often crumbles behind and in between the laths. The gaps between the laths allow the plaster to be pushed in, where is spills out behind each lath and once set, clings there forming a flat and solid surface.ĭespite this however, most lath and plaster walls and ceilings in homes in this country are at least 60 years old and due to this are well past their “sell by” date. It became widely used and started to replace lath and plaster by the 1930’s.Īs mentioned, to create a lath and plaster finish, the plaster is pushed onto and into the timber laths, which have been nailed to upright studs. Plasterboard took a while to catch on and was introduced to the UK in 1917. Lath and plaster is an extension of the wattle and daub idea and was used long after the invention of plasterboard by Augustino Sackett in approximately 1888. The daub was pushed, usually by hand, into the web of branches to forming a weatherproof surface, protecting the inside of the dwelling. Wattle was the name for twigs and branches that were interwoven between the upright timber posts that formed the framework of a dwelling.ĭaub was the name given to the various forms of mud, clay, lime, manure or other locally available, easily workable fillers that could be applied and smoothed onto the wattle. Lath and plaster was used as a wall finish long before plasterboard took over from the centuries old Wattle and Daub finish. It uses thin strips of timber spaced and fixed an inch or so apart that’s then fixed to a stud work frame that provides a surface for plaster to be applied to. Lath and plaster is a type of traditional wall finish, similar to plaster, that was first used around the 1700’s all the way up to the mid 18th century. Apart from fishing the cables through joists and down walls.Fixing to lath and plaster walls has always been a tricky problem and one that has always puzzled first time DIY’ers, however there are several solutions to this conundrum which we run through below. So long as it doesn't split when I screw on the back boxes (yes, I'll pilot and I splashed out on oak instead of pine) this could be job done. Its now glued and clamped in place behind the 3 studs. Maybe a little persuasion? Sure enough with quite a lot of bashing it eventually snapped into place with only minor damage to the edge of the hole. Whilst pondering this I tried shoving the stick in through one of the double socket holes and it went quite far before getting wedged. I can't reach past the stone without lifting more floorboards and I can't see that going well without spending a very long time cutting nails from below (and I just sistered the accessible ends of the joists so it would be very annoying to suddenly have more access, I'd be compelled to pull it all apart and make the sisters 6" longer). There's also a big stone jutting out below the stud that prevents me going straight up, I did already know about that. There's a 'dook' on the stud at about back-box height thats preventing me coming in at an angle from the side. ![]() Well that didn't go to plan, but it went better than expected.Īrmed with a selection of strip wood from the local DIY place I tried to feed the first piece up behind the skirting board. ![]()
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